Coire na Caim and Mullach an Rathain again. September 2020

Date: Sunday 6th September 2020
Distance: 15km
Ascent: 1050m

A week in Torridon, unfortunately forecast suggested high winds all week other than Sunday. Ho hum, at least it would keep the midges off.

As always, we have options to fill every day several times over, but the top of the wish list was a decent wander round the north of Liathach and its western arm. Nice to get in and about these routes once every few years at least.

It was a nice looking morning.

Across Loch Torridon:

Parked at the car park above Torridon House – the usual spot for Beinn Alligin. We hadn’t fully decided which way to do the walk. The tops were cloudy with forecast clearing.

We decided to walk out along Coire Mhic Nobuil first, mainly because the coire would probably get more sun and allow the best chance of clear tops when we were up there.

As usual we stopped after about 20 minutes to appreciate the Allt Toll a Mhadaidh falling into the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil.

Falls of Allt Toll a Mhadaidh:

The view up the abhainn to Beinn Dearg was also quite attractive.

Beinn Dearg over Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil:

The worst thing about Torridon is all the fantastic hills that you have to look at and leave for another day.

Beinn Dearg:

Best to get distracted – Fox Moth caterpillar:

There was certainly enough cloud around to lend some dramatic light and shade to the landscape.

Sun and shadow:

We walked up the reasonable path for an hour or so. The plan was to repeat a route we’ve come to like – up to the awesome amphitheatre that is Coire na Caime and then west to sneak on to the western arm of Mullach an Rathain via Coireag Dearg.

We crossed the much diminished Abhainn at NG 912 597 and headed uphill towards Coire na Caime. Views open up to the north.

Sail Mhor and Beinn a Chearcaill:

Coire na Caime is little visited. It is a rival to Coire Mhich Fhearchair of Beinn Eighe for drama though, with the main ridge of Liathach creating a massive wall to the south. The coire is cusped by the north ridge of Spidean a Choire Leith and Meall Dearg.

Tricky place to photograph most of the time with the sun peeking over the dark cliffs.

We had judged our time well though – the clouds over Liathach were beginning to break and the coire was receiving direct sunshine as we arrived.

We spent a good 40 minutes wandering around, occasionally seeing little figures up on the ridgeline of Liathach.

The loch was a vibrant green with pond weeds and with little wind there were some reflections

Loch Coire na Caime:

Meall Dearg is an outlier separated from Mullach an Rathain by the Northern Pinnacles.

Meall Dearg:

Wandered out to the island in Loch Coire na Caim this time, had some food and enjoyed the place.

Highland Darter:

Coire na Caime:

The ground between Coire na Caime and Coireag Dhearg is surprisingly benign and quite easy progress. We plowtered our way west up the slopes of Glas-toll Boideach towards our access ramp to the western arm of Mullach an Rathain.

Crossing Glas-toll Boideach:

There is a steep grassy ramp running up from Coireag Dhearg on to the munro arm. The high coire is usually occupied by the local deer herd.

Coireag Dhearg:

From there you pop up on to the western arm of Mullach an Rathain. This is (compared to the busy inter Munro ridge) pretty quiet.

The western arm also runs above the head of Loch Torridon so possesses sea views that much of the ridge lacks. Personally I love it, ambling with hands in pockets surrounded by Torridonian Classics and with a sea view makes it a real highlight.

We turned east to ascend the Munro, which had now cleared.

Western arm of Mullach an Rathain:

The arm is wide, so we headed over to the south side to get the loch view. Out across Loch Torridon there’s Applecross and then Skye.

Loch Torridon:

Beinn Alligin gives some serious Torridonian eye-candy to the view down the ridge.

Ascent of Mullach an Rathain:

It’s a 250m ascent to reach the summit of the Munro. Once we neared the summit we began to see our first walkers of the day, enjoying a pretty decent day on one of Scotland’s best hills.

Near the summit:

It’s a fairly special view from Mullach east to Spidean a Choire Leith – with Coire na Caim down in the base of the hill.

Liathach from Mullach:

Sat and had some more food, reasonably warm in the sunshine. Spent some time identifying distant hills. Across the glen Sgurr Dubh, Sgor an Lochain Uaine and the Achnashellach hills have provided many days of great walking.

South Glen Torridon Hills:

After a decent break we left the summit and other walkers behind to wander west out the arm to Sgorr a Chadail. We’ve only once dropped down to the glen from Mullach on the standard route – not a route we enjoyed or intend to repeat.

The wander west towards Beinn Alligin and the sea is far better.

West arm of Mullach an Rathain:

Heading along the arm:

Baosbheinn is visible between Na Rathanan and Beinn Dearg – quite a nice approach to this hill.

Baosbheinn :

Down below it’s a steep drop down to Torridon village and the head of the Loch. It’s a walk for a good sunny day like this and we were appreciating it greatly.

Head of Loch Torridon:

Once you get out towards Sgorr a Chadail the Munro summit comes back into view with a rather nice serrated edge.

Mullach an Rathain from Sgorr a Chadail:

Sgorr a Chadail is another precipitous sided viewpoint with a sheer face on the Loch Torridon side. We identified a few pitch sites – always good to identify good camping spots. It would be quite a good spot to spend a night.

Loch Torridon from Sgorr a Chadail:

We sat and lingered on Sgorr a Chadail – given the week’s forecast it seemed important to absorb high views while we had them. Eventually carried on dropping to the lower top to the west with views back up to the cliffs.

Sgorr a Chadail:

From there the direct route back to the car park is quite steep. Next time we might try an easier but longer version aiming NW towards the bridge over Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuill which gives an easier angle for descent.

Descent to the car park:

Once the steep descent is complete we aimed for the gate in the deer fence on the Coire Mhic Nobuil path and then back to the car.

A few more fluttery things to see:

Cracking walk – great to have such stunning parts of a fantastic hill nearly to ourselves.